beardless strawberries

August 12, 2017 17:52 | Fruit Plants

(pictured strawberries with a mustache)

It is a perennial plant, widespread, may be long in one place.However, every bush rather quickly thickened, and falls fruiting, so it is necessary to seat approximately every four years.In fact, it's not a bush, and a lot of plants that have grown around the plants planted from seeds fallen from overripe berries.Flowering and fruiting beardless strawberries from June to September.Berries her elongated shape, size, and appearance similar to the wild strawberry berries and carry the same strong aroma.

Planting the garden Planting and beardless strawberries should not be located close to each other.It is best to look clean-shaven strawberries planted in small courtines in flower beds or along the tracks located in a row.She can make a flower bed edging, or rocky hills, that is, this plant does not require a special place in the area, but of course, it is possible to plant a bed and a separate remote from strawberry plantings.Bushes with numerous white flowers,

green and red berries look very smart all summer.

beardless strawberries is more resistant to diseases and pests of strawberries, in particular, to the weevil and nematodes.

Varieties The most common variety of Hell, as well as remontant Sakhalin recently supplanted varieties Ali Baba, Baron Solemaher, Rügen, Yellow miracle.Doubtless advantage of the strawberry that can be grown from seed, and already in the first year it will begin to produce a crop.It can be propagated by dividing the bush it.The important thing is that it is more shade-than large-fruited strawberry, so it can be planted and under the canopy of trees or between trees in the garden and even grown in pots on the balcony, loggia and the windowsill in the room.

Reproduction seed

When seed reproduction at the beardless strawberries in the offspring does not occur splitting varieties, so feel free to sow it in February or early March in shallow containers, height of about 5-7 cm, most importantly, they must be broad (eg, from bank-under herring).

soil is best to prepare a mixture of peat, sand and sifted chalk or ash.Peat can be bought at the store for gardeners, fine river sand and chalk - in store construction materials or in stores, "All for the house."Mix them in such proportions: peat bucket, bag of sand weighing 1 to 2 kg of chalk and 2 cups (or liter jar of ash sifted).In the future, we are with you will often use this mixture.Personally, I have to add a landing mixture for 1 hour. A spoonful of powder fraction universal fertilizer AVA.If you use ash, you can not make this fertilizer.If you do not have ash or AVA, take 1 tbsp.spoon of NPK.

pochvosmesi This container should be filled to the top, good wet it with water, to seal a tablespoon.Before sowing the seeds are very small any strawberries, bring a bit of snow on the street, pour a thin layer of soil and seal spoon.And now the seeds.They are clearly visible in the snow, and you can always move them so that there is not too dense planting.

Better to sow the seeds at a distance of about 2 cm from each other.All the seeds are small, not necessarily strawberry, do not bury into the soil.They require light for germination.Snow melted, will tighten the seeds in the ground by half, and they germinate well.

It is important that the surface layer of soil is not dried out.To do this it is best to put on top of the bank (and not on the ground!) Or put the glass jar in a plastic bag and place in a warm place.As soon as the shoots, remove the foil or glass container and swap on the windowsill as close as possible to the glass or seedlings are illuminated fluorescent light for 12 hours.Seedlings are so tiny that they resemble small green dots on the ground.Watering should be water at the edge of the banks of a teaspoon.If moisture gets on cotyledonary leaves, they stick to the soil surface and can no longer climb.You can moisten the soil of the pipette.

Seedlings strawberries do not dive, but simply punctured when it grows back two or three true leaf (and therefore requires a sparse crop).By the time of transplanting in the garden or in the "shkolku" (a special place in the garden for rearing seedlings), seedlings should have 4-5 true leaves.Seedlings are so small, that take them along with the lump of soil can be a teaspoon.The soil in the beds should be prepared in advance, at least two weeks before transplanting plants, and to be completely free of weeds.For shkolki best to do the bulk of the soil mixture of peat, sand and ash, as described above.In this case, you do not have to constantly fight weeds.However, you can sow the seeds of strawberries in late August or early September, right at the prepared place, clear of weeds.I remind you that strawberry seeds in the soil is not sealed!


should know that when growing large-fruited strawberry seed you risk getting is not what we sow, because, unlike remontant, in the offspring are split strawberry varieties.After the start of fruiting bushes you have to select those that you meet and the rest discarded.


Strawberries grow well in slightly acidic and neutral (pH 5-6) soils.Like most plants, strawberries prefer leaf mold or other rich humus soil, loam or loamy soil.However, the land should not be too fat.If the soil is poor, podzolic, it is necessary to make the preparation of the landing area of ​​a bucket of humus and 3 tbsp.spoon of NPK per square meter.In the initial period of growth the most important thing - it's moisture.Watering young landing regularly, not allowing the slightest drying of the soil surface.While small plants, watering should be done carefully so as not to nail the seedlings to the ground.The seedlings should be planted after the spring frost bypassed.Beardless strawberries can be planted immediately to the place at a distance of 30 cm from each other, although it seems at this point is too large.


Also note there are beardless remontant varieties of strawberries that give a mustache, so they can be propagated by young rosettes, which is much simpler than seed propagation.In addition, all varietal characteristics are stored in reproduction outlets.

ten or fifteen years ago, many gardeners are eager to grow on their plots of strawberry remontant varieties due to the fact that they bear fruit twice in a season.First in the early summer, the second time - at the end.The main difference between conventional and remontant strawberry varieties that remontant variety flower buds at high temperature and long photoperiod.These varieties emit summer mustache, which did not even having time to take root, stems discarded immediately and begin to bear fruit.Sometimes you can read that the flowers bloom in the spring should be cut short to get higher yields fall.In the context of the North-West, this should not be done.Here's why: the first harvest in early summer, although it is less than a second, in our conditions ripen fully.But the second crop in late summer, we usually do not have time to ripen and partially die, even when the planting of arcs with a film coating.Therefore, many of the remontant varieties declined.However, for the warmer regions of these varieties it makes sense to grow, but you should know that the berries have remontant varieties smaller than the strawberry.